Kelly Fields Has a Biscuit for That

Bakers Biscuits

In the event you go to New Orleans, there’s an excellent likelihood you’ll end up gazing into the glowing pastry case at Willa Jean, the James Beard Award–successful South Market District neighborhood restaurant run by Kelly Fields. Between the golden biscuits, flaky fruit Danishes, and salty chocolate chip cookies, it’s practically inconceivable to order only a espresso. Named after Fields’s grandmother, Willa Jean has been drawing crowds and nationwide acclaim since opening its doorways in 2015. Whereas the strains are shorter lately—the restaurant is working at 50 p.c capability, in accordance with metropolis pointers—and attending to New Orleans as a vacationer might show tough, now you can re-create a number of the restaurant’s beloved baked items at residence, due to The Good Book of Southern Baking: A Revival of Biscuits, Cakes, and Cornbread.  

The richly photographed ebook, which spans Fields’s 20-year baking profession, covers New Orleans’ specialties like Creole cream cheesecake, praline monkey bread, and lemon Doberge cake, in addition to regional favorites like Mississippi mud cake, buttermilk pie, and blueberry hand pies, and pastry classics like crème brûlée, berry galettes, and chocolate tarts. Whereas Fields didn’t begin her profession with the intention of writing a cookbook, she’s been diligently maintaining notes since she first stepped into knowledgeable kitchen. 

After dropping her notebooks in Hurricane Katrina, she labored from muscle reminiscence to re-create years of misplaced recipes. This cookbook, a heat and playful love letter to Southern baking, can also be instructive and deeply researched, the results of years of testing and refining recipes. Her chocolate chip cookie, one of the vital fashionable gadgets at Willa Jean, famously took greater than two and a half years to develop. Regardless of the depth Fields brings to the recipe improvement course of, above all, she simply needs bakers to loosen up and have enjoyable within the kitchen—oh, and to cease evaluating their pies to those on Instagram. 

We just lately hopped on Zoom to speak about why she included six(!) biscuit recipes within the ebook, why white chocolate makes quite a lot of cameos inside, and her finest recommendation for nervous Thanksgiving pie makers. 

How are you doing? How is Willa Jean doing? Have you ever discovered inventive methods to remain afloat, each personally and financially, throughout this difficult time?
“Staying afloat” is a humorous phrase. Financially, no, however personally, you realize, coming again. There’s a variety of grief, of letting go of the thought of how issues had been and what it’s imagined to be. We’re studying look after ourselves in new methods, and for one another in new methods—the monetary half, hopefully, will come behind that. I feel New Orleanians do a extremely phenomenal job of hunkering down and doing what they should do—though it is a storm that we don’t know put together for or how to answer in a approach that we’re used to as a group. 

Does it really feel like individuals in New Orleans are able to exit once more?
I feel the majority of the people who find themselves coming to the restaurant are from out of city. I see lots of people posting on social media about Bourbon Road being full of people who find themselves not carrying masks. 

And attending to your new ebook, The Good Book of Southern Baking is totally unbelievable. You could have 5 biscuit recipes in it. How did you determine you wanted to incorporate all of them?
I truly snuck one other one in there on the final minute. There’s a canine biscuit in there now. I stored listening to that people who find themselves not from the South don’t essentially consider biscuits as Southern baking. I additionally realized that lots of people don’t put biscuits in a baking class; they put them in a savory class. I needed to make a really clear assertion that biscuits are, actually, an enormous a part of Southern baking, and there are a variety of alternative ways you may make them. My editor was totally on board. 

Is there one biscuit that’s your go-to or that you simply’d advocate individuals begin with?
I’d recommend beginning with the drop biscuit or the rolled biscuit. They’re the simplest ones. The Baker’s Biscuit, the one on the duvet, is essentially the most technical biscuit, however I feel the bottom line is to only make biscuits and never overthink it. You need to make a variety of biscuits to get good biscuits. Don’t be afraid of them. You’ll be tremendous.

I observed that the Baker’s Biscuit is made with Italian-style 00 flour. I’ve by no means seen that earlier than.
I used to be working with a man named Mike Carmody, who’s a unprecedented baker, and we had been speaking about our favourite issues about biscuits and baked items. I really like laminated doughs, like croissants and Danishes, however it’s actually laborious to get a young, tender, fluffy biscuit utilizing lamination methods. I realized from Mike that Italian-style 00 flour is milled so tremendous and has such a low protein content material you could add that additional step of folding and re-rolling with out build up a considerable amount of gluten, which is what makes a biscuit actually chewy and laborious.    

Two New Orleans–particular components, Creole cream cheese and Poirier’s Cane Syrup, are featured within the ebook. How would you describe these components to people who find themselves unfamiliar with them?
Creole cream cheese is like if ricotta and burrata received collectively and had a child that was a bit of bit extra on the tart facet. There’s a neighborhood dairy right here that sells Creole cream cheese, however I even have a recipe within the ebook for make it. In the event you’re in a rush and don’t have the time or the persistence, ricotta or mascarpone is an efficient substitute. I wish to discuss with Poirier’s Cane Syrup as liquid gold. It’s so particular. There’s a person proper exterior of Lafayette, Louisiana, named Charles, who grows all of the sugar cane in his yard. It goes from the bottom to a bottle in like 48 hours. It’s so recent, buttery, and nuanced. Happily, it’s accessible to buy online. I all the time attempt to purchase about 75 p.c of what he makes.

What do you wish to apply it to?
Every little thing! Within the restaurant, we serve it with corn bread, however I actually put it on all the things. I dip bacon and sausage in it. I put it on eggs. I find it irresistible. 

Thanksgiving is across the nook, and whereas it’s positively going to look very completely different this yr, I’m certain that individuals are nonetheless going to be making pies. Do you’ve gotten any ideas for nervous pie makers?
In the event you really feel nervous, it’s by no means too early to begin stocking your freezer with dough. The final word rule for baking pies is to not be intimidated by what you’re doing. It’s simply baking. It may not appear like essentially the most good factor you noticed on Pinterest or Instagram, however it’s probably going to be very scrumptious, and that’s all that actually issues. At the same time as knowledgeable, I used to be intimidated by pies for a really very long time. However you need to bear in mind—I’m going to say this out loud, simply ’trigger I’m an enormous advocate for it—many of the pies that you simply see on-line which can be tremendous intricate usually are not baked. They’re not baked, as a result of all the things modifications within the oven, and it doesn’t look that good when it comes out. 

Is there a pie that you simply all the time make for Thanksgiving? I noticed that you simply’re not a fan of pumpkin.
I don’t find it irresistible. I by no means have. I all the time make chocolate pecan pie and one other pie that’s not within the ebook—perhaps will probably be in one other ebook, in the event that they let me write one—which is a banana peanut butter cream pie. 

Have you ever all the time identified you needed to put in writing a cookbook?
I imply, no, you type of construct a basis of recipes [first], however the thought of this ebook began when Katrina hit and I misplaced all my notebooks. I went out and purchased a pocket book, and I wrote down each recipe I may consider, however I by no means thought that I’d write a cookbook. Even when a literary agent took me to lunch and instructed me all the explanations I ought to write a ebook and all of the books I may write, I nonetheless couldn’t consider it. I actually like baking, and I’ve baked within the South my whole life, and I find it irresistible, however I’ve imposter syndrome, too. I wrote a love letter to Southern baking.

Your chocolate chip cookies are fairly legendary, and it looks as if a variety of work went into perfecting them. What had been you looking for in your quintessential chocolate chip cookie?
It began as a bit of train for me to get again to my roots and actually bear in mind the easy fundamentals of baking, as a result of I had been doing high-end tremendous eating meals for thus lengthy. I began speaking to individuals—pals, coworkers, strangers—and gathering opinions on what makes a chocolate chip cookie nice. Most individuals know they like chocolate chip cookies, however they don’t know precisely what they love about them. The purpose was to make a cookie that touches on every of the traits individuals search out. I made cookies every day for about two and a half years. I actually realized what every step of the method does and the way each ingredient interacts with one another. I adjusted one little factor at a time to determine it out. I actually nerded out. 

I observed that quite a lot of recipes within the ebook embrace white chocolate, regardless of your disclaimer that you simply’re not an enormous fan of the stuff.
For me, it will depend on how you employ it. I exploit white chocolate as a stabilizer and sweetener. It’s sizzling and humid in New Orleans, and issues wish to soften right here. White chocolate helps whipped cream maintain its form and keep longer. For example, the whipped white chocolate on the important thing lime pie stabilizes the whipped cream, however it additionally actually performs off of the creaminess and tartness of a key lime pie.  

What’s one recipe that you simply assume would possibly fly below the radar as a result of it’s not tremendous flashy or Instagram-friendly, however is deserving of affection?
The chocolate pudding recipe. It’s simply brown, however it’s the most scrumptious chocolate pudding on Planet Earth, in my view.

On it! What are your pals’ most frequent requests?
Most individuals ask for banana pudding or my mother’s cobbler, which can also be the simplest recipe within the ebook. In the event you’re petrified of baking, begin with my mother’s cobbler—it’s embarrassing how straightforward it’s to get proper. 


The Baker’s Biscuits
There’s a motive this biscuit has actually been placed on a pedestal on the cookbook cowl. They’re golden, flakey, and finest served with a dollop of jam, sausage gravy, or with fried hen and sizzling honey.  

Willa Jean Chocolate Chip Cookies
The key to the well-known Willa Jean chocolate chip cookie? Two kinds of 4, three kinds of chocolate, and over two years of recipe testing. 

Heat Chocolate Pudding
This chocolate pudding gained’t win any magnificence awards, however you gained’t care about that once you’re spoon-deep in your second serving. 

Pumpkin Pie with Roasted White Chocolate Cream
If you realize somebody who thinks they don’t like pumpkin pie or white chocolate, present them the sunshine with this pie.  


Final week, we talked to Hawa Hassan about her new ebook, In Bibi’s Kitchen, which seems on the meals of eight African international locations united by their spice commerce with grandmothers defining their very own cuisines. 

Molecular biologist turned meals author Nik Sharma’s new ebook, The Flavor Equation, hit cabinets final week. The hotly anticipated ebook dives deep into how we perceive taste, from our emotions to our style buds. 

Hugh Acheson’s new ebook, How to Cook, could also be focused to teenagers, however people of all ages will respect its approachable format to instructing the foundations of cooking and his heat, fatherly recommendation. 

Did you catch our interview with Yotam Ottolenghi and Ixta Belfrage? It’ll have you ever serious about celery root in a complete new approach. 

The Essential Wine Book is strictly what it seems like, important. Zachary Sussman’s subject information to the brand new world of wine covers all the things from right now’s most enjoyable areas to easy-to-use recommendation on discovering the proper bottle for any event. Snag a digital or print copy of Whetstone Magazine’s fall issue. Vol. 006 covers a wide selection of meals origin tales, from residence cooking in Kyrgyzstan to a struggle for biodiverse avocados in Mexico.

Portrait by Gabrielle Geiselman Milone. Biscuit picture by Oriana Koren.